RETHINK

When analyzing the data from our GUIDE, we were surprised to discover that over 40% of A-Gain Guide users discarded their clothing simply because they no longer like them. Currently, over 80% of these discarded clothes are disposed of as waste (1). By extending the lifespan of our clothing, we preserve valuable resources and protect the environment. A circular approach to textiles offers the opportunity to make better and longer use of the textiles that we already own.

In our deep dive, we explain the technique of RETHINK and provide a bit of background information on the associated social, ecological, economic and political aspects. Would you like to start "rethinking" your closet right away? Then jump straight to our tips.

To RETHINK your approach to clothing, the first step is to take a wardrobe inventory to get a full overview of the clothes you already have. Take your time and look at your favorites. Which colors, shapes, cuts and materials make you feel comfortable? These pieces reflect your clothing needs and your style, regardless of trends. Did you know that, according to the capsule wardrobe principle, around 37 items in your wardrobe are enough to be dressed appropriately for all occasions? Gather your favorites together and see how you can combine them. A stylist can help you build up a reduced wardrobe and strengthen your own style, as can inspiring role models or video tutorials such as those you will find in our downloadable Resource E-Book.

Put the clothes that are among your favorites, but are broken or no longer fit properly, in a pile. To bring them back to life, you can repair them yourself or seek help from a local tailor. The blouse fits perfectly, but the color was a mistake? Re-dyeing clothes is quick and easy, even in your own washing machine. Don't be afraid to make small changes that will extend and lovingly intensify your time with your clothes! If you are unsure, you can always seek expert help.

The dress from your last summer vacation is fine, but never leaves the wardrobe? Then a new owner will be delighted! There are many ways to keep your clothes in circulation: swap, donate, upcycle, sell or, as a last solution, recycle.  

If you cannot decide whether or not you want to keep certain pieces of clothing, put them aside and allow yourself a period of reflection. After this you can then make a decision on what is the right thing to do with these items.

Pauses and moments of reflection, such as this, will also help you avoid impulse buys and clarify whether a new purchase is necessary, and complements your existing wardrobe. If these criteria are met, a new item should ideally only be added if you have first responsibly removed another item. This will keep the number of clothes in your wardrobe constant. 

A sustainable closet means buying fewer clothes, wearing them for longer, taking good care of them and passing them on when we no longer need them.

A confident awareness of your own style helps to reduce new purchases and keeps you enjoying your clothes for longer. This is the key to a sustainable wardrobe. Large amounts of energy, water and resources are consumed during the production of clothing. By using clothes for a short time and discarding them too quickly, many valuable resources are wasted and mountains of waste are produced. According to McKinsey, every European produces an average of 15 kg of textile waste per year.(3) In particular, fast fashion products made from synthetic materials end up polluting the environment as plastic waste. This plastic textile waste is usually incinerated or ends up in landfill sites of countries in the Global South. According to the UNEP, the negative impact on the climate could be halved if every item of clothing was used twice as often as it is currently being used. (4)

The change towards a sustainable approach to textiles is a social task and starts with us consumers and the clothes in our wardrobe: after all, the most sustainable clothes are the ones we already own. Have you ever thought about how your appreciation of new purchases differs from your appreciation of older clothes in your wardrobe? Buying fewer new clothes and instead cultivating a more intensive relationship with our clothes represents a radical change in our consumption patterns, especially as fashion is how we express our identity, emotions and creativity.

Due to complex global value chains, we also do not have an intense or appreciative relationship with the people who make our clothes, usually under undignified conditions and in violation of human rights. With the #Whomademayclothes campaign, the Fashion Revolution initiative is drawing attention to this gap and encouraging people to critically question their own consumption and its effects. (5)

But above all, the fashion industry itself needs to rethink its way of doing business, which is based on relentless growth and high-volume sales. Fast-moving trends, low quality and new items - which are much cheaper than clothing repair and maintenance costs - are methods used by the industry to cause products to age prematurely (= obsolescence) and encourage us to buy new items again and again. A Greenpeace study from 2019 clearly shows the massive loss of quality after the first wash of supposed bargains, and proves: "If you buy cheap, you buy twice"(7). In the end, fast fashion leads to a more frequent, and therefore likely higher level of spending. 

The “cost per wear” formula shows you the cost of your clothes per wear by dividing the price of the garment by the number of days you wear it. While the cost per wear of a pair of €40 jeans worn once a week for a year is €0.77, the cost per wear of a pair of high-quality €120 jeans worn once a week for 5 years is only €0.46. Investing in quality is cheaper in the long term and reduces the negative environmental impact of your clothing consumption.

Despite growing awareness in the fashion industry, the industry is not changing fast enough and is sticking to the harmful system of "take, make, dispose". A legal framework is therefore needed to put the textile industry on the path to sustainable development. With the Sustainable and Circular Textiles Strategy as a building block of the Green Deal, the European Union is aiming to transform the textile industry into a sustainable ecosystem by 2030.(9) 

The strategy includes the introduction of various new directives and regulations to ensure the durability, reparability and recyclability of textiles and to preserve social rights and ecosystems. As this new legal framework is shaped by representatives of the EU member states, the impact of the political regulations can change with every election.

By rethinking your closet, you are taking the first step towards shaping change politically. As consumers, we can increase the pressure on companies and politicians to act. We have the power to help shape change: with sustainable consumption decisions and standing up for our values and a sustainable society with our political voice.