RECIRCULATE

RECIRCULATE represents the vision of a diverse circulation of used textiles, achieved by both contributing to, and sourcing from existing pools of pre-owned clothing. Currently, however, a linear approach to second-hand clothing dominates. Europeans purchase nearly 26 kg of textiles per year, discarding 11 kg, with less than 1% being recycled, and over 70% incinerated or landfilled (1). In high-income countries, consumers buy new clothes, quickly discard them, and the majority of these discarded textiles are sent to lower-income countries, which often lack the financial capacity to handle these volumes.

In our deep dive, we take a critical look at the second-hand market and explain the RECIRCULATE technique. We also provide background information on the social, ecological, economic and political aspects involved, helping you make informed decisions about your clothing. If you want to learn the best ways to RECIRCULATE your clothes right away you can jump straight to our tips.

When it comes to recirculating clothing, we can both give and receive. The second-hand market offers access to affordable, unique pieces, while also allowing us to earn some extra cash by selling our own items. But what’s the best way to pass on your clothes?

If you want to sell clothing, you have many options: flea markets, second-hand shops, or online platforms like Vinted and Kleinanzeigen. You can also sell to recommerce companies such as Sellpy or Momox, which buy second-hand clothes and then resell for a profit. Keep in mind, these companies operate solely for commercial purposes, and unsold items are forwarded to sorting facilities. Shorter distribution routes are more environmentally friendly, and it’s always a great feeling to pass on clothes personally!

When donating, pay attention to the difference between charitable and commercial collections. To ensure your donation helps people in need locally, take your clothes directly to charitable organisations like the Berliner Stadtmission. Only donate items you’d give to a friend to wear—dirty or damaged clothes aren’t suitable donations. Make sure to check what types of clothing are needed before donating. You can find a helpful checklist in our e-book.

Clothing donation bins should be a second choice. Look for the "Fairwertung" seal (2), which guarantees that the textiles are used for charitable purposes. Commercial or non-certified bins lack transparency about where your clothes end up. Donating directly to local charities increases the chance your clothing will stay in circulation locally.

If you’re shopping for clothes yourself, second-hand shopping can feel like an exciting treasure hunt, offering unique pieces at affordable prices. To avoid bad purchases, remember that each brand has its own sizing, which can change over time, ie. the size M of one brand, may not be the same as the size M of another brand. Wear and tear is normal, but check if stains or damage are repairable. The search for the perfect find can be thrilling but also overwhelming. If flea markets or second-hand shops aren’t your thing, try online shopping—filters can help you narrow your search. The Faircado plug-in (3) is also a great tool for buying second-hand instead of new. Whether you shop online or offline, focus on quality and ask yourself if you truly need the item. Check out our e-book for the do’s and don’ts of second-hand shopping.

By reusing clothing instead of buying new, we actively contribute to environmental protection by reducing environmental issues connected to both the production and disposal of clothing.
Did you know that 40% of the used textiles exported to Ghana are waste? This amounts to around 6 million pieces of clothing every week! The lack of infrastructure for processing these textiles, combined with the sheer volume received, often leads to textiles polluting the environment in the Global South, with many ending up in landfills or being washed into the ocean (5).

With RECIRCULATE, we save resources like water and petroleum, reduce the use of chemicals, and minimise environmental pollution in both production and second-hand import countries. For example, approximately 20% of global water pollution is caused by the dyeing and finishing of textiles (6). And according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, we can cut CO2 emissions by 47% when we wear used clothes instead of purchasing new ones (7). Moreover, opting for second-hand clothing helps protect biodiversity, as textile production requires vast agricultural land, often leading to deforestation and biodiversity loss.

Only a small portion of our clothing is reused locally through flea markets, charitable organisations, or second-hand shops. The majority, however, ends up in markets in the Global South. Wealthy countries pass their clothing down a linear chain to poorer countries, often revealing deeply entrenched colonial structures.

A significant amount of the clothing arrives as waste, meaning the Global South primarily serves as a dumping ground rather than an equal trading partner. This process is referred to as "waste colonialism."

The low value of exported textiles forces traders in the Global South into a daily struggle for survival. They work under extremely poor conditions, facing high health risks and low wages—often in circumstances that resemble modern slavery. Children carry 55 kg bags of clothing through the markets, a dangerous and often life-threatening task (8).

Second-hand clothing offers numerous financial benefits. Not only is it often cheaper than new clothing, but it also allows you to purchase high-quality branded pieces. When buying used clothes, focus on quality, as second-hand items are often more durable. This means you’ll need to buy new clothes less frequently, saving you money in the long run. Best of all, many used items retain their value and can be resold later—a clever way to recoup some of your expenses.

Purchasing second-hand clothing strengthens the local economy and supports charitable organisations that contribute to the stability and well-being of our community. Social enterprises in the reuse sector rely on local circulation loops, providing transparency about the origin of their goods and creating jobs for people who often struggle to find opportunities in the job market. Unlike commercial providers, their focus is less on profit and more on helping disadvantaged individuals.

Support local social enterprises and promote the principle of proximity: use clothing locally for as long as possible before turning to larger second-hand platforms. This way, our clothes remain in the region, and we know where they come from.

Why is second-hand clothing political?

Often, there is a lack of support and incentive for companies in the reuse sector. Political frameworks are needed to make reuse more attractive than purchasing new items, and to promote fair trading practices. Current costs for collecting, sorting, and processing textiles, along with existing taxes and duties, favour quick disposal and export to the Global South instead of encouraging the longer use of textiles locally. It’s time to consider the actual costs of the textile life cycle.

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is a crucial tool in this context. It requires producers to take responsibility for the end of life of their products, including collection, sorting, and recycling, through a fee per product. EPR prevents producers from shifting the repercussions of poor design and the costs of waste management onto others. A European EPR regulation for the textile industry is being developed as part of the Green Deal, while national governments are also working on relevant legislation (11).

EPR fees are intended to benefit social enterprises that collect, sort, and process textiles, with stakeholders in the Global South also set to gain. An equitable distribution of fees is essential to ensure that the funds flow to where most used textiles end up, supporting the development of waste management infrastructures.